Kathmandu Durbar Square: History, Location & Travel Guide 2026

Thinking of visiting Kathmandu Durbar Square? Discover living goddess Kumari, royal palace and hidden stories most visitors miss, plus 2026 entry fees and time

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September 1, 2026 · 15 min read

Kathmandu Durbar Square, showcasing historic Newari palaces, carved wooden windows, and traditional pagoda temples.

About Kathmandu Durbar Square

Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as Basantapur Durbar Square or Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, is the former royal plaza of the Malla and later the Shah kings. It sits in the heart of Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. Located in the old Basantapur area of Kathmandu Metropolitan City, about a 20-minute walk south of Thamel. In 1979, UNESCO inscribed the square as one of the seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site.

The square is anchored by the Hanuman Dhoka Palace or Basantapur Durbar, which now houses the Kathmandu Durbar Square Museum. Inside and around the durbar square lies  monuments such as the Kumari Ghar - residence of the living goddess, Kasthamandap, the Taleju temple, Gaddi baithak, Kal Bhairab statue and many more which are discussed in the paragraph below. This square is the melting pot of architecture, trade and religion which it has reflected till date making it a must visit destination of Nepal for all visitors.

Kathmandu Durbar Square at a Glance:

Detail

What to Know

Location

Basantapur, old Kathmandu, about 1.5 km (a 20-minute walk) south of Thamel

Also known as

Basantapur Durbar Square, Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, Basantapur Durbar Kshetra (बसन्तपुर दरबार क्षेत्र)

Founded

A royal seat since the Licchavi period (4th–9th centuries CE); most monuments date from the 16th–18th centuries

UNESCO status

Part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site since 1979

Entry fee

NPR 1,000 for foreigners (palace museum included), NPR 500 for SAARC nationals, free for Nepali citizens

Opening hours

The square never closes; ticket counters staffed roughly 7am–7pm; palace museum about 10:30am–4pm, commonly closed Tuesdays

Getting there

Walk from Thamel via. Asan Tole, Indra Chowk and Makhan Tole, or take a taxi to Basantapur

Time needed

2 to 3 hours for the square and palace museum

Best time

Early morning (7–9am) or late afternoon (4–7pm); Indra Jatra in August–September

History of Kathmandu Durbar Square (Basantapur Durbar Square)

Pre-medieval history

Kathmandu Durbar Square has been a royal seat since the Licchavi period (4th–9th centuries). It grew as a stoppage point between the old trade route of India and Tibet. Its oldest building, the Kasthamandap, was a rest house for traders, said to be built from the timber of a single sal tree and trace the earliest structural timber and foundations back to around 7th CE.

Medieval history: the Malla kingdom

The Kathmandu square seen today was built by the Malla kings. When King Yaksha Malla died in 1482, the Kathmandu Valley split into three rival kingdoms: Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. In 1564, King Mahendra Malla raised the Taleju Temple for the royal goddess, and it is still the tallest temple on the Kathmandu square. The golden age belongs to King Pratap Malla (reigned 1641–1674), a scholar and poet who expanded the palace courtyards and set up the fierce Kal Bhairav statue. The last Malla king of Kathmandu - Jaya Prakash Malla, built the Kumari Ghar (Kumari Bahal) in 1757 as the home of the Kumari, the living goddess, and began her chariot procession at Indra Jatra.

Shah and Rana rule

Malla rule ended in 1768, when Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha took Kathmandu during the Indra Jatra. The Shah kings made the Hanuman Dhoka Palace their seat of power and added the Nautale Durbar, the nine-storey Basantapur Tower, in 1770. In 1908, the Rana prime minister Chandra Shumsher added the Gaddi Baithak, a white neoclassical hall. The royal family later moved to a new palace, but Nasal Chowk remained the coronation courtyard until 2001.

Earthquakes and restoration

UNESCO listed the square as part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site in 1979. The 1934 earthquake reduced the palace from 35 courtyards to 10. The 2015 earthquake brought down about half a dozen temples, several palace towers and the Kasthamandap. The Kasthamandap was rebuilt in 2021, and the Nautale Durbar reopened in May 2025. Most of the square has now been restored, and Newari craftsmen still work on the rest by hand.

Major Attractions of Kathmandu Durbar Square - A Self-Guided Walking Tour

The Hanuman Dhoka palace entrance, guarded by its red-cloaked Hanuman statue, sits on the west side of the palace in the northern half of Kathmandu Square. Every monument below is described by where it lies from that gate, and none is more than a few minutes walk away. Start in Basantapur durbar to the south, walk north to the palace and explore the Kathmandu Durbar Square architecture along the way.

Kumari Ghar (Kumari Bahal) - the home of the living goddess

The Kumari Ghar is the home of the Kumari, the living goddess of Kathmandu. It stands at the corner of Basantapur square, a 2-minute walk south of the palace gate . Look for a three-storey red-brick house with carved wooden windows and two stone lions at its door. King Jaya Prakash Malla built it in 1757 as a permanent residence of the royal goddess Kumari. She is a young girl from the Newar Shakya community, worshipped as an incarnation of the goddess Taleju (mother goddess). Once a year, during Indra Jatra, she is pulled through the city in a chariot.

Do not miss: The Kumari sometimes appears briefly at an upper window, often around 11:00 AM–12:00 PM or 4:00–5:00 PM, though there is no fixed schedule. You may photograph the courtyard, but never the Kumari, and no visitor goes beyond it.

Hanuman Dhoka and the Hanuman statue

The Hanuman Dhoka, meaning “Hanuman’s gate”, is the main entrance to the old royal palace and the reference point for the whole square. It stands on the palace’s west side, facing the northern half of the main square. You can spot it by the statue of Hanuman, the monkey god, beside the gate, draped in a red cloak with its face hidden under layers of red vermillion paste. King Pratap Malla placed the statue here in 1672, believing Hanuman would protect the palace and its people from harm, and the gate and palace took his name. Devotees still stop here daily to make offerings, and this is where you enter the palace museum with your ticket. The statue and gate came through the 2015 earthquake, though the palace behind them was badly damaged.

Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum (Tribhuvan Museum)

The Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum is a royal museum inside the old palace. It has three parts: the Tribhuvan Museum and memorial galleries for Kings Mahendra and Birendra. To get in, go through the Hanuman Dhoka gate on the west side of the palace. Staff check your ticket at the gate, because museum entry is included for foreign visitors. The museum entrance is on your left as you step into Nasal Chowk. The museum honours King Tribhuvan, who ended Rana rule in 1951, and his successors Mahendra and Birendra. The 2015 earthquake damaged the palace and closed the museum. The main galleries have since reopened, but some sections remain closed for restoration.

Timings: The Kathmandu Durbar Square museum is open from 10:30 AM to 4:00 PM. It usually closes on Tuesdays and public holidays.

Do not miss: Royal thrones, state portraits, coins, jewellery, weapons and the personal belongings of the Shah kings, including a recreation of King Mahendra’s office. Where it is open, climb into the Nautale Durbar for views across the square.

Kasthamandap - the pavilion that named a city

The Kasthamandap is a large wooden public pavilion, the rest house that gave Kathmandu its name. It stands at the south-western corner of Kathmandu Durbar Square, a 3-minute walk south-west of the palace gate. Look for a broad, open, three-roofed timber building on a raised platform. It dates to the 7th century, in the Licchavi period, and legend says it was built from the timber of a single sal tree. Its builder is unknown. It was raised as a sattal, a shelter for travelers and traders on the old India–Tibet route, and later became a shrine to the saint Gorakhnath. 

The 2015 earthquake destroyed it. A community-led committee rebuilt it in traditional timber, funded by Kathmandu Metropolitan City, and finished in 2021. Two original logs were reused, one about 1,600 years old. Disputes over its handover have kept it locked at times, so you may only see it from outside.

Gaddi Baithak

The Gaddi Baithak is the palace state hall, a white European-style wing of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace. It faces the main square, a 1-minute walk south of the palace gate, directly opposite the Kumari Ghar. Look for its white neoclassical columns and facade. The Rana prime minister Chandra Shumsher added it in 1908, after visiting Europe, as a hall for state receptions and royal ceremonies. Its balcony is still used on state occasions, and Nepal’s head of state watches Indra Jatra from here. The 2015 earthquake damaged it badly. A US$700,000 restoration and seismic strengthening, funded by the US Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation, was inaugurated in June 2018. A second phase has since been completed.

Kal Bhairav statue

The Kal Bhairav statue is a giant stone image of Bhairav, the fierce form of Shiva. It stands a short walk north of the palace gate, at the northern end of Kathmandu Durbar Square. Look for a 12-foot stone figure with six arms, a crown of skulls and bulging eyes, trampling a demon. It was carved from a single block of stone. Local accounts say it was found in a paddy field. King Pratap Malla (reigned 1641–1674) installed it on the square as a guardian of the city.

People accused of crimes swore their innocence here, because lying before Kal Bhairav was believed to bring instant death. Devotees still leave flowers, rice and coins every morning, and during Indra Jatra it becomes a focus of rituals.

Taleju Temple - the tallest on the square

The Taleju Temple is a three-roofed pagoda dedicated to Taleju Bhawani, the royal goddess of the Malla kings. It stands at the north-eastern end of Kathmandu Square, a 2–3-minute walk north-east of the palace gate. It is the tallest temple on the square, easy to spot on its 12-stage plinth with gilded roofs. King Mahendra Malla built it in 1564 as the royal temple of the Malla dynasty. Legend says the goddess herself appeared, disguised as a bee, to bless it when it opened. Its gate opens only once a year, on the ninth day of Dashain, and only to Hindus. Entry is forbidden for tourists. The 2015 earthquake damaged its roof, which was repaired by 2016, and some renovation has continued since.

Nautale Durbar (Basantapur Tower)

The Nautale Durbar, the nine-storey Basantapur Tower, is the tallest part of the Hanuman Dhoka palace. It stands on the palace’s south-eastern corner, a 2–3-minute walk from the entrance, overlooking Basantapur square. Look for the tall, tiered brick tower with carved wooden windows and balconies, rising above the palace roofs at the north end of Kathmandu Durbar Square. Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha built it in 1770, two years after taking Kathmandu, to commemorate the unification of Nepal. It also served as an early royal residence. Today it is part of the palace museum, with a permanent exhibition on its restoration. Its top tiers collapsed in the 2015 earthquake. China funded an eight-year restoration, handed over to Nepal in August 2024, and the tower reopened in May 2025.

Do not miss: On a clear day, the upper floors look across the temple roofs of Basantapur to the hills around the Valley.

Shiva-Parvati Temple

The Shiva-Parvati Temple is a two-roofed Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva and his consort Parvati. It stands in the middle of Kathmandu Durbar Square, just north of the Kumari Ghar, a 2-minute walk south of the palace gate. Look for carved, painted figures of Shiva and Parvati leaning out of its upper window. Bahadur Shah, son of Prithvi Narayan Shah, built it in the late 18th century, one of the first Shah era additions to the Malla square. The temple survived the 2015 earthquake but needed wooden supports for several years afterwards.

Do not miss: It is still a working shrine, and its wide stepped plinth is one of the most popular places in Kathmandu Square to sit and people-watch.

Basantapur Dabali

The Basantapur Dabali is the raised open-air stage at the centre of traditional Newar squares. It stands in the southern plaza of Kathmandu Durbar Square, a 3-minute walk south-east of the palace gate. Look for a brick-and-stone platform ringed by souvenir stalls, with the Nautale Durbar behind it. Its builder and date are unknown. Dabalis date to the Malla period, built for masked dances, rituals and royal announcements. Masked dancers and Dhime drummers perform here during Indra Jatra. On ordinary evenings, joining the locals here is one of the easiest things to do in Basantapur.

Beyond the square: Freak Street, Asan and Indra Chowk

Three things sit just outside the ticketed area and are worth folding into the walk.

Freak Street, or Jhochhen in Newari, the lane running south from Basantapur, was the centre of Kathmandu’s hippie-trail scene in the 1960s and 70s and is now quiet - cheap guesthouses, small cafes, a few bookshops, and the nearest place to sit down. 

Leave by the north-east corner along Makhan Tole (Makhan Street), once the main road of old Kathmandu. It leads to Indra Chowk and then to Asan Tole, the city’s busiest old bazaar, with spice stalls and small shrines at every corner. This is also the walking route from Basantapur back to Thamel, about 20 minutes away. Do not treat it as just a way out; for many visitors it is the most memorable part of the day.

Kathmandu Durbar Square entry fee 2026

Foreign visitors pay an entrance fee to the whole Kathmandu Durbar Square area, collected by Kathmandu Metropolitan City’s - Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square Conservation Programme. Buy it at the ticket counters on the main approaches to the square, and carry cash in Nepali rupees.

Visitor category

Entry fee

Notes

Foreign nationals (non-SAARC)

NPR 1,000

Includes the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum (Tribhuvan Museum)

SAARC nationals

NPR 500

Passport required as proof

Nepali citizens

Free (square)

Small fee for the palace museum

Children under 10

Usually free

Accompanied by an adult

Kathmandu Durbar Square opening hours 2026

The square is an open public space with no gates, so you can walk through it at any hour. The ticket counters keep daytime hours, and the palace museum keeps its own, shorter schedule.

 

Typical hours

Notes

The square (open area)

All day

Ticket counters staffed roughly 7am–7pm

Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum

9am–6:00pm

Commonly closed Tuesdays and public holidays (verify locally)

Kumari Ghar courtyard

Daytime

The Kumari’s appearances are not scheduled

Temples

Daytime

Taleju Temple opens only once a year, during Dashain

Practical ticket tips:

  • Keep your ticket with you. Wardens check it inside the square, not only at the counters.

  • If you plan to come back on another day, ask at the counter whether your ticket can be extended with your passport.

  • Fees change without much notice. Confirm at the counter rather than trusting any blog, including this one.

Best Time to Visit Kathmandu Durbar Square

Best time of day:

7–9am is the finest window. The light is soft and low, residents are making their morning offerings, and the tour groups have not yet arrived in Basantapur from Thamel.

4–7pm is the second. The brick warms to red, the Basantapur Dabali fills with locals, and you can stay on for the lit-up temples after sunset.

Avoid 11am–3pm, when the light is harsh, the crowds are largest and the open brick of Basantapur square gets hot in the warmer months. Saturdays and public holidays are busier than other days.

Best season:

October and November are the finest months: clear skies after the monsoon, comfortable temperatures and Nepal’s peak travel season, with Dashain and Tihar bringing rituals to the square.

March and April are a close second, warm and mostly clear.

August and September bring the monsoon’s afternoon rain, but also Indra Jatra, the square’s biggest festival, which makes it the best time of year for a festival-focused visit.

Winter (December–February) is cool and quiet, with crisp mornings and the fewest visitors of the year.

How to Get to Kathmandu Durbar Square

From Thamel (about 1.5 km)

  • On foot (20 minutes, free): Head south through Thahiti to Asan Tole, then south-west through Indra Chowk and along Makhan Tole (Makhan Street). The route enters the northern end of the square by the Taleju Temple. Keep to the edges, as the lanes are busy with motorbikes.

  • By rickshaw (15–20 minutes, about NPR 200): Cycle rickshaws wait at Thamel Chowk. NPR 200 is the usual opening price for foreigners, so bargain and agree the fare before you set off.

  • By taxi (10–15 minutes, about NPR 300–400): Ask for Basantapur Durbar Square; most drivers drop you at its southern end. Agree the fare first, because taxis rarely use the meter.

  • By ride-sharing app (10–15 minutes, about NPR 150–300 by car, less by motorbike): Pathao and InDrive show a fixed fare before you book.

  • By public transport: Not worth it from Thamel, because walking is faster.

From Tribhuvan International Airport (about 6 km)

  • By prepaid taxi (25–40 minutes, NPR 700–1,200): Book at the official prepaid taxi counter in the arrivals hall and pay the fixed fare there. Ignore drivers who approach you inside the terminal.

  • By ride-sharing app (25–40 minutes, about NPR 400–800 on Pathao, NPR 350–700 on InDrive): Book from the pickup area beside the taxi rank.

  • By public bus (about 45–60 minutes, NPR 25–50): Walk about 5 minutes (500 m) from the terminal to the main road and take a Sajha Yatayat bus or microbus to Ratna Park. From Ratna Park, walk about 15 minutes west to Basantapur square. This route suits light luggage only.

Kathmandu’s Festival Calendar

If you can time your visit to a festival, do. Kathmandu Durbar Square is the city’s main festival stage, and one festival above all belongs to it: Indra Jatra.

Festival

When

What happens at the square

Visitor tip

Kumari Jatra (high point of Indra Jatra)

During Indra Jatra

The Kumari is carried out of the Kumari Ghar and pulled through the old city in a wooden chariot, followed by the chariots of Ganesh and Bhairav. Nepal’s head of state receives her blessing, a ritual that once confirmed the king’s right to rule.

The best chance to see the Kumari in public

Indra Jatra

8 days in Bhadra (August–September)

A tall wooden pole (the lingo) is raised in front of the Hanuman Dhoka palace. Masked dancers, including the Lakhey and Majipa Lakhey, perform on the Basantapur Dabali and in the lanes around Basantapur square.

The square’s biggest festival; huge crowds, so arrive early and find a spot on the temple steps

Seto Machhindranath Jatra

4 days from the eighth day of the bright half of Chaitra (March–April)

A towering chariot carries the white image of Seto Machhindranath from Jamal through Asan and Indra Chowk. It stops at Kathmandu Durbar Square on the second day, then moves on to Lagan in the old city. Crowds pull the chariot to music and light butter lamps wherever it stops.

The best day to see it at the square is the second day; stand clear of the chariot’s ropes and wheels

Dashain

September–October (15 days)

The Taleju Temple opens its doors on the ninth day, the only day of the year it does, for Hindus only.

Non-Hindus can watch the crowds and rituals from outside

Visitor Rules & Guidelines

Kathmandu Durbar Square is more than an open-air museum; it is the living heart of the old city. Priests still open the shrines at dawn, the Kumari still lives in her house, and the square still fills with worshippers at every festival. Move through it the way you would move through someone’s home.

Guideline

What it means on the ground

Why it matters

Dress modestly

Cover shoulders and knees, especially at temples and shrines.

These are active places of worship, not a photo backdrop.

Remove your shoes

Take them off before entering any temple or shrine. Leather items are restricted at some shrines.

Bare feet on temple ground is the oldest mark of respect in Nepal.

Respect closed sanctums

The Taleju Temple opens only during Dashain and only to Hindus. Non-Hindus stay in the Kumari Ghar courtyard.

A boundary that is not about you is not a boundary to negotiate.

Never photograph the Kumari

Photograph the Kumari residence courtyard freely, but lower your camera when the Kumari appears.

She is a goddess in worship, not a tourist sight.

Ask before photographing people

Always ask residents, priests and sadhus first, and never photograph a ritual in progress.

People here are narrators, not subjects.

Do not touch or climb

No climbing on temple plinths or statues, no handling of offerings, and respect restoration fences.

Much of the square was rebuilt by hand after 2015.

Walk clockwise

Circle temples and shrines clockwise (pradakshina), as devotees do.

A small gesture that shows you know where you are.

No drones without permission

Drone flights and commercial filming need prior approval from the authorities.

Heritage airspace and ceremony both need protecting.

Carry your ticket and cash

Keep your ticket on you, as wardens check it inside the square. Carry Nepali rupees.

Your fee funds the upkeep of the square.

→ Full guide: Nepal Temple Etiquette for Travelers

Kathmandu Durbar Square vs Patan & Bhaktapur Durbar Square

All three Durbar Squares are UNESCO-listed, and travellers with limited time often ask which to prioritise. Kathmandu wins on convenience, royal history and the living goddess; Patan wins on fine art; Bhaktapur wins on scale and a car-free medieval town.

 

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Patan Durbar Square

Bhaktapur Durbar Square

City

Central Kathmandu (Yen)

Lalitpur (Patan)

Bhaktapur (Khwopa)

UNESCO area

11.56 ha

18.85 ha

14.32 ha

Best for

Royal history, central location, the living goddess

Fine art, Newari craft, calm

Scale, car-free medieval town, festivals

Crowds

Moderate–heavy

Moderate

Moderate

From Thamel

~20 min on foot

~20–40 min by taxi

~60–90 min by taxi

Foreign entry (approx.)

~NPR 1,000 (museum incl.)

~NPR 1,000 (museum incl.)

~NPR 2,000 (whole city)

Signature sight

Kumari Ghar · Hanuman Dhoka · Kasthamandap

Krishna Mandir · Patan Museum

Nyatapola · Golden Gate · 55-Window Palace

Signature festival

Indra Jatra

Rato Machhindranath Jatra

Bisket Jatra

Time needed

2–3 hours

Half day to full day

Full day (ideally overnight)

Tip: Kathmandu and Patan pair well in one busy day. Bhaktapur deserves its own. Fees change often; confirm current rates before you go.

Where to Stay Near Kathmandu Durbar Square

Most visitors stay in Thamel, a 20-minute walk away, which has the widest choice of hotels at every budget. Staying closer, around Basantapur and the old lanes south of the square, gives you the square at dawn and after dark, when it is at its best.

The streets around Basantapur hold small guesthouses and a few heritage hotels in restored Newari buildings, many with rooftop terraces looking over the temple roofs. Rooms in Basantapur are simpler than in Thamel, but you are paying for the position. For a quieter, more local base, Patan is only 20–40 minutes away by taxi.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as Basantapur Durbar Square and Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, is the former royal plaza of the Malla and later the Shah kings. It sits in the old Basantapur area of Kathmandu, about a 20-minute walk south of Thamel. Called Basantapur Durbar Kshetra (बसन्तपुर दरबार क्षेत्र) in Nepali, it is home to the Kumari, Kathmandu’s living goddess, and was inscribed by UNESCO in 1979 as part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site.

The square is dominated by the Hanuman Dhoka Palace, with its Nasal Chowk, the nine-storey Nautale Durbar and the palace museum, alongside the Taleju Temple and the neoclassical Gaddi Baithak. Around them stand the Kasthamandap, the Shiva-Parvati Temple, the Kal Bhairav statue, the Kumari Ghar (Kumari Bahal). 

At about 11.56 hectares and 1,324 meters above sea level, it is the smallest of the valley’s three Durbar Squares. Even so, its Newari architecture, set beside Shah- and Rana-era additions, makes it the clearest record of Nepal’s royal history. Most monuments damaged in the 2015 earthquake have been rebuilt. Foreign visitors pay NPR 1,000, the square never closes, and two to three hours is enough to see it. Visit in the early morning, in the late afternoon or during Indra Jatra.

Glossary of Nepali & Newari Terms:

Term

Meaning

Durbar

Palace, or royal court

Dhoka

Gate

Ghar

House

Chowk

Enclosed courtyard within a palace or house complex

Sattal

Public rest house built to shelter pilgrims and travellers

Tundal

Carved wooden roof strut supporting the eaves of a pagoda temple

Shikhara

Tapering North Indian temple spire, usually built in stone

Jatra

Festival procession in which a deity travels through the city, usually by chariot

Puja

Act of worship or ritual offering

Pradakshina

Clockwise ritual circuit around a shrine or temple

Sadhu

Hindu ascetic or wandering holy man

Sindoor

Red vermilion paste applied to images and to the forehead in worship

Bhairav

Shiva in his fierce, destroying aspect

Kumari

Living goddess; a pre-pubescent girl worshipped as the embodiment of Taleju

Nautale

Nine-storey

Seto / Rato

White / red - used to distinguish the two Machhindranath deities

Gai

Cow

Kastha / Mandap

Wood / pavilion - the two words behind the name Kathmandu

Frequently asked questions